Friday, November 14, 2014

Tweed Malu Jacket.


It's kind of odd how it turned out, because some of the features that I liked best in Schnittchen's Malu jacket are gone in my version. I loved the wide hem band on the model, but on me, the length was all wrong. I considered raising the band, but it would have looked awkward, cutting across my hips. Without it though, the jacket has a bit of a 50s silhouette that I quite like.


As you can see, there's plenty of room for sweaters!
I also loved the wide lapels in the original jacket, but I ended up slimming mine down by about 1/2 an inch, thereby reducing the center front overlap.
The way they spaced their buttons didn't work for me either. I chose to have a single coconut button.


Another change I had to make was to raise the welt pockets by about 2 inches, and I used quite a bit more interfacing than Schnittchen advises you to. Imagine cutting welts into tweed that isn't interfaced. It would not be pretty!



I also shortened the sleeves before the cuffs by more than an inch, though you wouldn't know it. I'm of average height, so this pattern is clearly drafted for tall gals!
Sorry these pictures look so gloomy! It's been really grey and rainy lately and it never seems like the right time to take pictures. I'm only including this one so you can see the jacket buttoned:


In spite of all the cosmetic modifications I made, which were a matter of adjusting the pattern to my proportions, the bones of the pattern are unchanged. It's loose and comfy, and the way the sleeves are drafted, they accommodate my square shoulders quite well. I also appreciate that Schnittchen provides separate upper and lower collars for both collar options (I used the "pointy collar"). It's a well drafted pattern!
There is no back facing, which I'd never seen before, but I decided to go with it and it worked out quite well, I think. Makes me wonder, what is the purpose of back facings in collared jackets?


The tweed is 100% wool, the satin lining is acetate, and the result is surprisingly warm! Oh, and I lined the pockets in flannel to make them extra cozy.


I made a jacket last fall too, and it's still one of my faves! You can see it here if you like: My Peacoat.

28 comments:

  1. I can see whay this is one of your faves! Love the mods (testimonial to the “one pattern doesn’t mean one garment") looks amazing on you and those finishings …. so polished!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Sasha. Yes the original pattern is still "there" i spite of my mods :)

      Delete
  2. Oh, I love this. I have the long hooded Malu on my wish list, which also includes cold enough weather to wear it! But sometimes I make something just for the joy of doing it. You're right, it has a 50's looks that really appealing. Your changes are lovely and your work is exquisite. Wonderful and unique jacket.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Coco. I really like the design of the long version, ad you'll have the opportunity to use that hem band which seems like such a neat trick for finishing the hem!

      Delete
  3. Very flattering jacket! The inside looks impeccable!

    ReplyDelete
  4. This is insanely fabulous! It's like, simplicity at it's absolute best. I love it!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you so much! I like simple :)

      Delete
  5. I really like this! The sleeves look really practical for layering.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! Yes, it's very practical :)

      Delete
  6. It's beautiful. The colour is gorgeous on you and I do love the sleeves. What is it you've done at the centre back lining - it's so pretty! Is it decorative or functional? The only thing reason I can think of for a back facing is for longevity of the garment - the facing would wear better than the lining at that point against the back of the neck.... Who knows though? You look very warm and chic!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Sarah! Of course you're right about the back facing. It makes sense. The stitching down CB is to hold down the pleat. I tried out different embroidery stitches on my machine, and I found the tighter ones were stiffer, while the broader ones without too much overlap respected the flow of the fabric more.

      Delete
  7. This looks so good and nothing like the original pattern. I love that stich detail on the lining pleat, it's so original!

    ReplyDelete
  8. Thank you so much, Marilla :)

    ReplyDelete
  9. I love this! Such a great shape. Beautiful work with the lining and details on the innards. I think I need to check out these patterns ;-). It looks like the kind of comfy, yet dressy jacket that would be hard not to wear every day.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I think the Malu would look amazing on you, Debbie! You have the height to pull it off as designed.

      Delete
  10. I really like the alterations you made. Would not have recognized it as the Malu jacket as you're right that it has a lovely vintage look. Beautifully finished too!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you ebony! It is fun how little changes here and there can really alter a pattern's "personality".

      Delete
  11. Wow, what a great jacket! I love the changes that you made! It's such a gorgeous color and silhouette!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! The nice thing about tweed is it's made up of so many different colors :)

      Delete
  12. the changes really made this special. great idea

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. thank you so much! so glad you like it :)

      Delete
  13. I've just discovered your blog, and find it so inspiring! Love the classic styling and your attention to detail/quality of finish.

    ReplyDelete
  14. J'adore les manches, c'est très joli et ça te va bien

    ReplyDelete