Thursday, September 11, 2014

Big Green Coat.

Burda 08/2010-102

It's so hot out right now, it seems crazy to sew a coat, but I know I'll be reaching for it soon enough.

Burda 08/2010-102

It's a lot easier for me to envision my fall wardrobe now that my coat is sewn. For me, outerwear is key. Once you have your coat or jacket, everything else falls into place. Now I have tons of ideas for things I want to sew!


I wanted my coat to be in a color (be it a dark one), because it doesn't feel as safe as a neutral and I wish to explore a more complex palette. Dark green will work with all the colors I love for fall : jewel tones, earth tones, peach, blue, grey, black... but I think the combination of any of these colors with the green will always be more interesting than with a neutral.




This isn't the fabric I had originally planned to use.  This one is a herringbone wool in a slightly different shade of green, yellower in hue. I know the Mood bouclĂ© will find its purpose eventually, but it wasn't wide enough for this project. Since the sleeves are cut on the cross grain and I wanted long sleeves, I needed wide fabric. The original design has 3/4 to 7/8 sleeves, which is lovely but not practical for me. I like my arms to be warm too!


Even though I did make a muslin, lengthening the sleeves is the only change I made to the pattern. It's a very loose style and no fitting alterations were necessary.
I had planned to use fabric covered snaps, but decided against them eventually. This way I can adjust the front wrap overlap to make it snugger if I need more warmth.
Sewing a coat is always time consuming, but this one wasn't particularly difficult. No set in sleeves, no buttonholes... The pockets are in-seam.
The only slightly challenging detail is the angled shoulder seam which must be interfaced and sewn with precision.

Burda 08/2010-102 Angled Shoulder Seam

 Of course the collar should be shaped so it rolls nicely, for which I use the technique in my Burda book, "La Couture Pratique". The English version, which is called "Burda: a Practical Sewing Guide" seems to be out of print, however In the Mood for Couture has all the steps :)


 Some people like to cut their undercollar on the bias, but I don't, because then it won't pop!


Hand worked belt loop:



I used a flannel backed lining so it will be nice and warm. (I run cold, though I must admit winters aren't terribly rough here in Bordeaux).


This coat is exactly what I had envisioned and I can't wait for the temperature to drop so I can cuddle up in it!




If you like coats, check out the peacoat I made last fall and which I look forward to pulling out again this year!

37 comments:

  1. I’m in awe! It is simply beautiful Sara! You made the perfect coat! I LOVE it!!!!

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    1. Thank you Sasha! I know you have impeccable taste, so it means a lot :)

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  2. This is beautiful and will be wonderful when the temperature falls. I can't wait to see what you sew to go with it, loved all the colours that you mentioned.

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    1. Thank you Robin! I can't really think of any colors that wouldn't work with this shade of green.

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  3. God, that was quick! I'm so distracted lately I cannot seem so get round to my coat sewing, but this is definitely going to spur me on. I am in love with the clean lines and that shoulder detail. I hope you do find a use for your mood boucle.

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    1. It really is a pretty easy sew. Coats and jackets can get fiddly, but this is pretty straight forward. I recommend it :)

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  4. Gorgeous! I can't believe you finished it already. It looks like the perfect mix of cozy and flattering.

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    1. Thank you Morgan, that's exactly what I was going for :)

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  5. Absolutely impeccable. Just love it! I can only hope my winter coat turns out as stylish...

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  6. Ooh, I'm really loving this on you! And your handworked belt loop is so neat - thanks for the close-up. I have a similar silhouette in mind for a fall/early winter coat, but I don't know if I'll find the right fabric yet. But you've inspired me to get out and have a look!

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    1. Thank you Chloe! It can be a challenge finding the right fabric when you have a specific pattern in mind, but it's worth looking!

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  7. It is a gorgeous coat, in every way! And you look fabulous in it!
    It is eternally summer where I live, so coats are only for winter travel. What you have written in this post are very useful for me. The point about the wrap feature is particularly insightful as I have always found store bought coats to be on the snug side after I have layered sweaters under it. And, I do happen to have a wrap coat pattern that I might sew up someday :)
    I look forward to reading about building a fall wardrobe around this coat, I am sure that i will pick up useful pointers for a fall travel wardrobe too.
    And enjoy your coat!

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    1. Thank you! Roomy coats are certainly the most practical.

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  8. Beautiful coat! it looks so cozy and exactly you!

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  9. Exquisite. Love the loose, 'I'm wearing it" style. And the color is wonderful.

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    1. Thank you Coco! My comfortable, no nonsense clothes get the most wear, no question!

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  10. It's amazing, and so beautifully made! The shoulder detail looks wonderful. You look effortlessly chic - a really lovely piece!

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    1. Thank you Sarah! So glad you like it.

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  11. I know I'm always gushing about your work but it is justified. You match a pitch perfect understanding of your own style with judgement about what to make and with what materials. This is great - fit, colour, style! I love all of the views but make note of the back view, the line of the shoulder and the collar up photo.

    I've never made a coat and am somewhat intimidated with my very basic machine. I do need to get a book with some information about appropriate techniques, although I probably won't make a coat this year as I had thought. I had forgotten that I had bought a beautiful mid-weight coat last year in Italy in the Christmas sales that I had to leave there because of suitcase space and will pick up in October. We have so few weeks in which we can wear anything other than a parka, anyhow. :( Stephanie

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  12. Stephanie, if I lived in a very cold climate, I'm sure my approach would be very different. Parka season was about 2 weeks here last year, so I enjoy my mid-season coats for a good number of months! If you should decide to sew a coat though, I recommend looking at this free internet ressource before purchasing any book: The RTW Sewalong http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.fr/p/sew-alongs.html
    It walks you through all the steps to make a really nice coat with RTW techniques. The pattern amendments (such as redrafting your facing so it's sure to lay correctly) are especially invaluable.
    Thanks for your nice words. It means a lot :)

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    1. I meant to say, for the sewalong, scroll down a bit, under the slip sewalong :)

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    2. Thanks so much for the link, Sara. I may just decide to copy you for the experience (plus I love the coat). ;) It's nice to have something beautiful to wear, even for a short period!

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    3. Sara...you've created a new obsession for me...reading all of the posts of that wonderful blog! :)

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  13. Absolutely delightful. I love green too - it really suits your delicate complexion. I agree that colours are more interesting than the standard neutrals.

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  14. Atsolutely gorgeous! Love your coat. It is so pure and elegant, plus really wearable. I'm planning to sew a coat too for this fall, but I'm procastinating for some weeks. Your perfect coat is encouraging me.

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    1. Thank you so much Claudia! I look forward to seeing your coat :)

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  15. Oh, your coat is DIVINE! the colours and pattern in the close-up shot really show how lovely is this fabric. It suits you beautifully too.

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    1. Thank you Carolyn! I'm happy with this herringbone fabric. It's nice and soft :)

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  16. Oh my, the way you turned your vision into reality is absolutely amazing. From the overall conception (I have been admiring the wrap coats in beautiful colors that are turning up lately, and your rich green is perfect) to the details (hand-worked belt loops!), I am in awe.

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