Thursday, June 12, 2014

Moneta with Pleats & Gathers



With so many cute Colette Monetas all over the web, I kept going back and forth on whether to try it. I reasoned that gathers all around my waist are not a good look for me. Then I read comments saying that the skirt is shaped and the gathers are very soft and flattering, so finally decided to give it a go. Well, I tried the gathers, and as expected, they made me look stumpy. I considered replacing them entirely with pleats similar to the ones in the Michelle skirt, but finally decided that I simply needed to break them up at center front. They look fine in the back.


So, I undid the middle portion and put in two pleats. This creates two soft vertical lines in the front which I find lengthening and flattering.


I used a cotton double knit in a mango color which is quite substantial, but also very easy to work with. I'm not even certain this dress is finished! I lengthened the skirt portion so I could hem it at whatever length seemed best once the dress was done, but for now the edge is raw. I kind of like it like that. I think I'll wear it this way for a while and then decide if I want to hem it.


As you can see, Bordeaux is a biking city :)


I finished the neckline with binding, which seemed neater than just turning it under, and the sleeves were hemmed on the coverstich with a single chainstitch.


Here, with the wind blowing, you can really see those pleats. They are stitched down about 8 cm, which helps keep the front flat.
The Moneta has notches around the waist line so you can easily match up the skirt and bodice. I measured the distance from center front to notch on both the front bodice and front skirt. The excess in the skirt became a pleat.


I also made a few adjustments to the front bodice. I muslined the bodice only, and found there was lots of excess fabric pooling in the upper chest area. To remedy this, I scooped out the front armcye. I also shortened the armscye taking several centimeters off the sides, tapering to nothing at the waistline (I also straightened the sides. The Moneta's front bodice has rounded side seams, which might be a good idea for larger busts, but with my B cup, it just caused ripples at the sides). I also reduced the width of the sleeves which were very big on me in the size S.


Feels like Summer now. I'll be sewing easy packable pieces for a while. What are you sewing for Summer?

More Summer dresses: Silk Tunic DressSimple T shirt Dress

32 comments:

  1. What an amazing fit … I seriously envy your sewing skills!!! The front pleats look great … and are a much better idea than having gathers on the abdomen!

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    1. Thanks Sasha, It worked out well in the end :)

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  2. That's a lovely version of the Moneta - the pleats were a great idea.

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  3. So clever and beautiful on you Sara!

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  4. This is lovely! I'm not blown away by this pattern, but your version is so pretty with your mods. Beautiful colour too! X

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    1. Thanks Marilla! I think it's a good basic, but, as it was designed, not necessarily for all body types, including my own ;)

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  5. Your dress is beautiful. Love the colour on you. The change in the skirt is a really good alteration. Now your dress has a very flattering silhouette.
    XXX ,
    Claudia

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    1. Thank you so much Claudia! Yes, I lucked out on the color :)

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  6. Ah, you pick the best colors. All the mods were worth it!

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    1. Thank you Morgan! Yes, I think it worked out well.I might even make it again some day!

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  7. Hey Sara...lovely dress! The colour is ever so flattering! Very pretty! I really like the idea of a flat front skirt with pleats and gathers at the side fronts and back. It really gives the dress a 'designer' feel. And I know you didn't ask, but I think it would be lovely hemmed a little shorter. :)

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    1. Hi Sue! I'm glad you like it. I might end up shortening it a bit. We'll see :)

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  8. Wow! You did such a great job on this dress. I have to admit that I almost never wear knits, but you're making me rethink that position! You did such a great job with the fitting of the bodice and the adaptation to pleats in the front, and of course the colour is lovely on you. Yet another inspiring make.
    Incidentally, I have set up a makeshift sewing blog. I only mention this as I was inspired by you to make the MIchelle skirt and I like the pattern. Thank you! Stephanie

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    1. Thank you Stephanie! I'm so glad about your sewing blog :)

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    2. Thanks for stopping by, Sara. Now I have to build my confidence re. photos. :) Incidentally, I forgot to mention that the third photo could be straight out of The Sartorialist! Also, I wanted to mention that I didn't mean that knits are bad. I'm just not in the habit of wearing them, I think because I'm small but unfortunately a bit bigger in the bust (31D) and so I tend to feel self-conscious in some knits. Anyhow...happy sewing!

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    3. I meant the third photo of yours, above.

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  9. I really like the mods you made and this is now a really beautiful flattering garment. Of course the colour is lovely on you and really speaks of summer!

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    1. Thank you Kirsty! Yes I love that color. Anything peachy coral makes me happy!

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  10. Lovely make of this dress...I am shy of it, because of the gathers at the waist, but you did such a nice job of minimizing the worst and accenting the best of this feature. Stitching the pleats down really works well. And I love the unfinished hem, so out there - go for it!

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    1. Thank you Coco! So glad you like it!

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  11. I love your photos so much! Specially the one with the fog where you are holding your sunglasses.
    That colour is very pretty and so is the dress itself. And it looks comfortable too! I didn´t know about this pattern, now I´ll have to have a look!

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  12. I love it! I really like the pleats. Thanks for the information about how to remedy the armsyce issue. I'll definitely try this on my next version.

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    1. thanks! I hope my description was clear enough, but let me know if you have any questions.

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  13. Hi Sara. How lovely - the way that you have combined pleats and gathers on the waistline of your Moneta is so elegant. I think I might try something similar for my dress as I am not sure about totally gathered waistlines. Pattern and fabric are ready and waiting!

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    1. Great! I look forward to seeing your version.

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  14. Your dress looks great!!! Unfortunately after making the Moneta this weekend (just my second adventure sewing with knits!) I found it very unflattering on my pear shape =)...I have to agree with you, too may gathers at the waist. Did you use the clear elastic across the front? How far did you stitch them down? Did you keep the gathers in the back just as the pattern instructs? Thanks so much!

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  15. Hi! Yes I used the clear elastic all around the waist. I always like to use it to support the waistlines of knit dresses. I just sewed it without stretching over the flat front portion. The pleats are stitched down about 8cm, but I just winged it. You may want to stitch them down more or less depending on your shape. And yes, the back is gathered as per the pattern, but you could have pleats there as well. It's worth experimenting!

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